The most beguiling city in the world, New York is an adrenaline-charged, history-laden place that holds immense romantic appeal for visitors. Wandering the streets here, you'll cut between buildings that are icons to the modern age – and whether gazing at the flickering lights of the midtown skyscrapers as you speed across the Queensboro bridge, experiencing the 4am half-life downtown, or just wasting the morning on the Staten Island ferry, you really would have to be made of stone not to be moved by it all. There's no place quite like it.

While the events of September 11, 2001, which demolished the World Trade Center, shook New York to its core, the populace responded resiliently under the composed aegis of then-Mayor Rudy Giuliani. Until the attacks, many New Yorkers loved to hate Giuliani, partly because they saw him as committed to making their city too much like everyone else's. To some extent he succeeded, and during the late Nineties New York seemed cleaner, safer, and more liveable, as the city took on a truly international allure and shook off the more notorious aspects to its reputation. However, the maverick quality of New York and its people still shines as brightly as it ever did. Even in the aftermath of the World Trade Center's collapse, New York remains a unique and fascinating city – and one you'll want to return to again and again.

You could spend weeks in New York and still barely scratch the surface, but there are some key attractions – and some pleasures – that you won't want to miss. There are the different ethnic neighborhoods, like lower Manhattan's Chinatown and the traditionally Jewish Lower East Side (not so much anymore); and the more artsy concentrations of SoHo, TriBeCa, and the East and West Villages. Of course, there is the celebrated architecture of corporate Manhattan, with the skyscrapers in downtown and midtown forming the most indelible images. There are the museums, not just the Metropolitan and MoMA, but countless other smaller collections that afford weeks of happy wandering. In between sights, you can eat just about anything, at any time, cooked in any style; you can drink in any kind of company; and sit through any number of obscure movies. The more established arts – dance, theater, music – are superbly catered for; and New York's clubs are as varied and exciting as you might expect. And for the avid consumer, the choice of shops is vast, almost numbingly exhaustive in this heartland of the great capitalist dream.

New York is, above all, a walker's city. Along its busy streets, an endless variety of sights unfolds everywhere you go, and the character of its neighborhoods changes every few blocks. Quaint town houses stand shoulder to shoulder with sleek glass towers, gleaming gourmet supermarkets sit around the corner from dusty thrift shops, and chic bistros inhabit the storefronts of soot-smudged warehouses. Many visitors, beguiled into walking a little farther, then a little farther still, often have stumbled upon their trip's most memorable moments.

If you plod dutifully from point to point, nose buried in a guidebook, you'll miss half the fun. Look up at the tops of skyscrapers, and you'll see a riot of mosaics, carvings, and ornaments. Step into the lobby of an architectural landmark and study its features; take a look around to see the real people who work, live, or worship there today. Peep down side streets, even in crowded midtown, and you may find fountains, greenery, and sudden bursts of flowers. Find a bench or ledge on which to perch and take time just to watch the crowd passing by. New York has so many faces that every visitor can discover a different one

Dining in New York

Picking a restaurant in New York City is a foodie's dream — or nightmare. The best pizza? The best kaiseki? There are loads of books and blogs devoted to the quest, especially with new restaurants arriving all the time to fuel the collective hunger.

If you've never heard of Joël Robuchon, save your money. But apostles of the celebrated French chef have been flocking to Manhattan just to check out his latest outpost, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, which opened in late summer 2006 at the Four Seasons Hotel. The eight-course tasting menu may include sea urchin in lobster gelée and caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras.

Back when prostitutes and butchers filled its cobblestone streets, the Meatpacking District had Restaurant Florent. Luckily, the French diner remains a part of the over-trendy neighborhood, and it still serves classic fare like boudin noir and steak au poivre. One of the better and flashiest newcomers is Buddakan, a haute Chinese restaurant that is likely twice the size (and surely three times as expensive) as the biggest dim-sum palace in Chinatown.

For adventurous fare without venturing to the outer boroughs, head to Clinton Street on the Lower East Side, a still-hot restaurant row where young chefs turn out new classics. Falai , a modern, monochromatic restaurant, serves fashionable Italian cuisine like cocoa-flavored pappardelle with venison ragu. Down the street, its sister bakery-cum-cafe Falai Panetteria serves moderately priced pastas like whole wheat lasagna with Bolognese sauce.

Some more suggestions:

Chelsea

La Bottega
88 Ninth Ave between 16th and 17th Sts
212-243-8400
Price Range: $$ to $$$
Especially fun in the summertime thanks to a large, airy deck, this Italian restaurant in the swanky Maritime hotel attracts an ultra hip crowd. Its flatbread pizzas garner a lot of attention, especially one with oozing cow's milk cheese and truffle oil.

Le Zie
172 Seventh Ave between 20th and 21st Sts
212-206-8686
Price Range: $ to $$
www.lezie.com
One of Chelsea's most popular spots thanks to its affordable prices, Le Zie boasts a traditional Venetian menu featuring seasonal specials, as well as a wine list of over 200 labels from every region of Italy.

Tia Pol
205 Tenth Ave between 22nd and 23rd Sts
212-675-8805
www.tiapol.com
Price Range: $ to $$
One of the city's best spots to enjoy tapas, Tia Pol serves up some of the most flavorful small plates around. Fried chickpeas, perfectly seasoned lamb, and fried whitefish are only a few of the menu's delicious offerings all of which match perfectly with a red or white from the wine list.

Chinatown

Hop Kee
21 Mott St.
New York, NY 10013
212-964-8365
For those in need of a Cantonese food fix, head over to Hop Kee. Dishes are expertly prepared, prices are affordable, and service is quick.

Peking Duck House
28 Mott St. at Pell St.
212-227-1810
As the name suggests, this is the place to experience Peking duck. Unlike many other Chinatown restaurants, the decor is hip and modern.

East Village

Mermaid Inn
96 Second Ave between 5th and 6th Sts
212-674-5870
Price Range: $$ to $$$
www.themermaidnyc.com
You may be on a stretch of Second Ave, but one step inside the Mermaid Inn and you've been transported to a New England seafood shack - though the ambiance is a bit more upscale. The menu is all fruits de mer, and the lobster roll (called a sandwich here) is full of fresh chunks of lobster meat served on a toasted bun and accompanied by extra thin fries and vinegar for dipping. Forget the dessert menu - all diners receive a complimentary chocolate mousse served in a tiny mug and topped with whipped cream.

Hearth
403 East 12th St. at First Ave
646-602-1300
Price Range: $$$
www.restauranthearth.com
Nestled on a corner of First Ave, this standout spot has both impeccable Tuscan food and extremely warm service. Try the restaurant's tasting menu (which changes four times per year in accordance with the seasons) and be sure to save room for extra delicious desserts. If they're serving coconut souffle, try it.

Prune
54 East 1st St. at First Ave
212-677-6221
Price Range: $$$
True foodies flock to this teeny spot to peruse an eccentric menu where bone marrow and other interesting variations of meat and fish abound. Picky eaters beware: If you're not willing to stretch your culinary horizons, this might not be the place for you.

Greenwich Village

Tartine
253 West 11th St.
212-229-2611
Price Range: $$
Nestled on a picturesque corner in Greenwich Village, this tiny French restaurant always attracts a crowd, and for good reason. The flavorful food is always delicious and the BYOB policy offers a welcome relief from other restaurant's pricey wine lists. In the summer, try to snag an outdoor table, but beware, they go fast.

Mas
39 Downing St. between Bedford and Varick Sts
212-255-1790
Price Range: $$$
Mas means farmhouse in French, and while this elegant Greenwich Village spot is ultra cozy, there's an undeniable touch of chic as well. Service is prompt and attentive, as is the detail to food. Butter for your homemade bread arrives practically melted (makes for easy spreading!), and the upscale menu includes unique offerings such as Duck Breast with Pistachio Nougat and Monkfish Rolled in Black-Olive Paste.

Snack Taverna
63 Bedford St. between Morton St. and Seventh Ave
212-929-3499
Price Range: $$
An expansion of its tinier sister spot in SoHo, charming Snack Taverna offers innovative twists on traditional Greek cuisine. Freshly baked pita arrives piping hot to be eaten with a number of hot and cold dishes and the affordable Greek wine list is definitely worth perusing.

Harlem

Max Soha
1274 Amsterdam Avenue at 123rd St.
212-531-2221
Price Range: $
This cash-only spot is a spin-off of the popular Ave B location where rustic Italian cuisine is served in a cozy, romantic atmosphere. It can get busy on weekends, but now you can wait down the street at quaint sister establishment Max Cafe.

Massawa
1239 Amsterdam Avenue at 121st St
212-663-0505
Price Range: $
Prepare to expand your culinary horizons at this neighborhood spot serving some of the city's best African eats. Its proximity to the teachers college at Columbia University has made it popular with professors and students alike.

Little Italy/Nolita/SoHo

Raoul's
180 Prince St. between Sullivan and Thompson Sts
212-966-3518
Price Range: $$ to $$$
A lively French bistro located in the heart of SoHo, Raoul's has been packing in upbeat patrons since the mid-70s. Its cozy atmosphere makes it especially fun in the colder months and the perfect place to warm up with classic French dishes and a bottle of red wine.

Woo Lae Oak
148 Mercer St. between Prince and Houston Sts
212-925-8200
Price Range: $$$
www.woolaeoaksoho.com
A swanky SoHo hot spot that gets particularly packed (and loud) on the weekends, Woo Lae Oak offers an exciting introduction to Korean cuisine. Even if you have a reservation, you'll most likely have to wait a bit at the bar, so order up a lychee martini, then prepare to start grilling your own duck, beef, and veggies. In order to sample as much of the menu as possible, it's best to go with a large group.

Bianca
5 Bleecker St. at Bowery St.
212-260-4666
Price Range: $to $$
Nestled in a charming small space, Bianca feels as if you've stepped into your grandmother's homey living room. Patterned china adorns the walls, and curtains emblazoned with the letter B hang from windows. The real draw at this cash-only spot though is the delicious regional Italian cuisine at reasonable prices. Start off with the tangy gnocchi frito stuffed with cheese and a lemony artichoke salad with thin slices of parmesan, then opt for either a homemade pasta or juicy filet mignon flavored with rosemary.

Lower East Side

apizz
217 Eldridge St. between Stanton and Rivington Sts
212-253-9199
Price Range: $$
Pronounced ah-BEETS, as in pizza, this spin-off of pricey sister restaurant Peasant serves Italian pizza and quite possibly the city's largest meatball.

wd~50
50 Clinton St. between Rivington and Stanton Sts
212-477-2900
Price Range: $$$
www.wd-50.com
The Lower East Side's ubiquitous chef Wylie Dufresne's first restaurant is more laboratory than restaurant kitchen. Go here with an open mind and be prepared to sample the culinary scientist's latest creations - from Pork Belly, Black Soy Beans, and Turnips to Scallops, Celery Noodles, Hazelnut-Potato, and Pine Needle Oil.

Midtown

Baldoria
249 West 49th St. between Eighth and Ninth Aves
212-582-0460
www.baldoriamo.com
Price Range: $$ to $$$ $
Forget snagging a table at Rao's, owned by Frank Pellegrino. Head to Baldoria instead, a larger space owned by his son where large portions of delicious Italian cuisine are dished up tableside. It's the perfect spot for a pre- or post-theater dinner and don't be surprised if you see a celebrity or two.

Bar Americain
152 West 52nd St. between Sixth and Seventh Aves
212-265-9700
Price Range: $$$
www.baramericain.com
Bobby Flay has tackled Tex-Mex and Spanish cuisine in Manhattan and is now making a statement with an American brasserie that serves upscale comfort food. Located in a 200+ seat space designed by David Rockwell, Flay's latest spot features a meat and seafood-heavy menu inspired by many of the places he visited while filming FoodNation.

Esca
402 West 43rd St. at Ninth Ave
Price Range: $$$
If you're craving Italian seafood, march yourself over to Esca, yet another spot from Mario Batali that's earned well-deserved accolades for its ultra fresh fruits de mer.

Burger Joint
118 West 57th St. between Sixth and Seventh Aves
212-708-7414
www.parkermeridien.com
Price Range: $
If you're craving a burger for dinner, head over to this secret spot in the Parker Meridien Hotel where a $5.50 helping of ground beef on a bun is sure to satisfy. Hidden behind curtains in the hotel lobby, the greasy spoon is the perfect place to kick back after a long day of sight seeing.

Tribeca

The Odeon
145 West Broadway at Thomas St.
212-233-0507
Price Range: $$ to $$ $
www.theodeonrestaurant.com
Tribeca's popular French brasserie made famous from its many mentions in Bright Lights, Big City is the perfect place to end your day. Slip into one of its comfy banquettes, order up a fancy martini, and choose between Grilled Organic NY Sirloin Steak Frites and Grilled Wild Striped Bass with Artichokes, Fennel, and Orange-Coriander Sauce.

Churrascaria Plataforma
221 West Broadway between White and Franklin Sts
212-925-6969
Price Range: $$$
Carnivores can eat their hearts out at this spin-off of Midtown's popular Brazilian meat mecca. Just don't fall victim to the enticing salad bar - you need to save room for the unlimited amounts of meat that will be wheeled to your table till you're ready to call it quits.

Next Door Nobu
105 Hudson St. between Franklin and North Moore Sts
212-334-4445
Price Range: $$ to $$$
www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com
If you forgot to reserve a table at Nobu a month ago, you'll be happy to know that this offshoot of the Japanese hot spot serves simpler versions of the same fare at more reasonable prices. Get there extra early, or you'll definitely have a wait.

Roc
190A Duane St. at Greenwich St.
212-625-3333
Price Range: $$ to $$$
www.rocrestaurant.com
Situated on a romantic Tribeca corner, this chic Italian spot serves up delicious eats from Sorrento in an elegant setting. In the warmer months, opt for a table on the cozy wrap-around deck.

Union Square, Gramercy, Flatiron

Blue Smoke
116 East 27th St. between Park and Lexington Aves
212-447-7733
Price Range: $$ to $$$
www.bluesmoke.com
Blue Smoke is a serious barbecue joint that will satisfy laid-back diners with its comfy red-leather booths, more upscale patrons in its airy dining room, and music lovers in the downstairs jazz club. Fill up on Texas barbecue at its best, much of which has a pleasantly surprising foodie twist. Pit-smoked foie gras, anyone?

Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave at 24th St.
212-889-0905
Price Range: $$$
www.elevenmadisonpark.com
Soaring 30-foot ceilings and windows overlooking beautiful Madison Square Park make Eleven Madison Park a perfect spot for a business lunch or family dinner. The French-inspired seasonal American food is smartly prepared and includes offerings such as Artic Char with Pea Shoots and Vinaigrette and Seared Loin and Almond Crusted Shank of Lamb with Basquaise Peppers. Pastry chef Nicole Kaplan provides a sumptuous end to the meal with irresistible desserts such as her signature chocolate souffle, chocolate dome, and an exquisite selection of cookies and confections.

Casa Mono
52 Irving Place between 17th and 18th Sts
212-253-2773
Price Range: $$ to $$$
Located on the corner of charming Irving Place near Gramercy Park, Mario Batali's take on tapas offers a culinary exploration of Spanish cuisine. Choose between offerings such as Fried Duck Eggs and Patatas Bravas, and if you're struggling with the extensive wine list, one of the knowledgeable servers is sure to have a precise recommendation that'll round out your meal.

Upper East Side

JoJo
160 East 64th St. between Third and Lexington Aves
212-223-5656
Price Range: $$$
www.jean-georges.com
Jean-Georges has a restaurant monopoly in New York City, but no matter how much he expands his culinary empire, this Upper East Side French classic still wows its devoted patrons night after night. Housed in a two-story townhouse, it's the perfect place to indulge in an oozing Valhrona chocolate cake that many restaurants consistently strive to imitate.

Mangiarini
1593 Second Ave between 82nd and 83rd Sts
212-734-5500
Price Range: $$
www.mangiarini.com
This minimalist 30-seat Italian spot is a refreshing break from the homogeneous Italian restaurants that you'll find on the Upper East Side. The food is just as simple as the pleasant decor, but still bursts with flavor.

Zebu Grill
305 East 92nd St. between First and Second Aves
212-426-7500
Price Range: $$
www.zebugrill.com
It's hard not to classify Brazilian cuisine as mainly meat, but this cozy Upper East Side spot proves that seafood reigns supreme as well. Try the Mouqueca, a popular coconut-based seafood stew, or if it's meat you're really craving, the Churrasco for Two. The Caipirinhas - Brazil's national drink -- are delicious too, especially the ones flavored with mango and other exotic fruits.

Upper West Side

'Cesca
164 West 75th St. between Amsterdam and Columbus Aves
212-787-6300
Price Range: $$$
www.cescanyc.com
For serious Italian food in a roomy space with subdued style, head to 'Cesca. Plush banquettes are the perfect spot to gather a group, though many dine a deux on Sliced Duck Breast with Squash, Sweet Garlic, Pignoli, and Sage, Housemade Potato Gnocchi, Ragout of Veal Breast and Ricotta Salata, and other flavorful Italian dishes.

Kitchen 82
461 Columbus Ave at 82nd St.
212-875-1619
Price Range: $$
www.charliepalmer.com
When you want gourmet eats without breaking the bank, head to Kitchen 82 for a $25, 3-course dinner. You'll have your choice between five appetizers, five main courses, and five desserts. Entrees might include Salmon Two Ways with Black Pepper Biscuit and Caper Cream or Grilled Hanger Steak with Red Smashed Potatoes, Sweet and Sour Onions, Bitter Greens and Roasted Mushrooms, while desserts are more informal and on display in the dining room for patrons, somewhat reminiscent of a French bistro or an early American diner. Favorites such as tiramisu and chocolate pudding are regular offerings, alongside seasonal berries with creme fraiche.

Nice Matin
201 West 79th St. at Amsterdam Ave
212-873-6423
www.nicematinnyc.com
Price Range: $$
Nice Matin highlights the exotic history and culture of one of France's most-loved cities: Nice. Specialties of the region such as the classic Pissaladiere (a Nicoise pizza with slow cooked onions, olives, and thyme), Pistou (thick vegetable soup with pesto), and Roast Codfish are served in a bright dining space with a terrazzo floor and curved zinc bar. In warmer weather, grab a seat outdoors.

Per Se
10 Columbus Circle (at 60th Street) 4th Floor
212-823-9335
Price Range: $$$$
http://www.frenchlaundry.com/perse/perse.htm
Thomas Keller brings his distinctive hands-on approach from Napa Valley's The French Laundry (widely touted as America's best restaurant) to a 15-table dining room in New York's Time Warner Center where unbeatable views of Central Park abound. A choice of prix fixe menus is available, but be prepared to drop $175 right off the bat (excluding wine and tip) no matter what you choose.

What to do:

What to do when you're not watching the gladiators on Center Court:

Walk. It's not only the cheapest mode of transportation, but the best way to grasp how this city of neighborhoods is stitched together. Start at Union Square, where everyone from skateboarders to suburbanites meets. Stroll down Fifth Avenue to Washington Square Park, then turn east for sooty old tenement buildings, or west for picturesque brownstones. If you're lucky, you'll get lost.

Go beyond bagels and Broadway to see what makes the world's cultural capital really tick. For every tourist trap, there's an alternate, authentic New York version. Pay $20 for art at MoMA, or go gallery hopping for free in Chelsea (www.westchelseaarts.com). See "Les Miz" in Times Square, or check out the next Rent at the New York Theater Workshop in the East Village (79 East Fourth Street, 212-460-5475; www.nytw.org). Shop for Prada in SoHo, or go farther afield into the Lower East Side for boutiques like Kaight (83 Orchard Street, 212-680-5630; www.kaightnyc.com).

With so many bars and clubs to choose from, New Yorkers are constantly looking for the right crowd. If you're wearing American Apparel and retro high-top sneakers, take the L train to Williamsburg in Brooklyn for places like Galapagos Art Space (70 North Sixth Street, 718-782-5188; www.galapagosartspace.com). Fans of Amanda Lepore should take a taxi to Beige, the Tuesday night party at the B Bar and Grill (40 East Fourth Street in Manhattan, 212-475-2220; www.bbarandgrill.com). And if you're in a limo with Lindsay Lohan, just tell the driver, "Bungalow 8," (515 West 27th Street, 212-629-3333). But not before 2 a.m.